Borage Seed Oil

Borage, a plant with ferny leaves, electric blue flowers, and cucumberlike fruit, is becoming known in the culinary world as a tasty herb and condiment. But research on the medicinal properties of borage is still in the early stages, despite some promising work showing anti-inflammatory and antierythemic properties. The herb is worth investigating, as it may have dermatologic applications.

Borago officinalis is an annual herb native to Syria and now grown throughout the Mediterranean, Middle East, North Africa, Europe, and South America. Derived from the seeds of the plant, borage seed oil is used in medical practice for its anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, arthritis, and other conditions. In fact, the use of borage oil has demonstrated efficacy as a topical therapeutic approach to childhood eczema in small studies in which, for example, the symptoms of childhood atopic dermatitis were relieved by undershirts coated with borage oil (Eur. J. Dermatol. 2007;17:448-9; J. Dermatol. 2007;34:811-5; J. Fam. Pract. 2009;58:280-1).

Courtesy flickr/anemoneprojectors/creative commons license

Significantly, borage seed oil is also the best plant source of the omega-6 essential fatty acid gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), with GLA accounting for about a quarter of the oil and some extraction processes yielding products with over 50% GLA. Human skin cannot synthesize GLA from the precursor linoleic acid, which is notable because GLA is believed to contribute to skin hydration. As an oral supplement, borage seed oil is believed to be useful in reducing skin inflammation and erythema. As an ingredient in topical applications, it is thought to moisturize and strengthen the skin barrier. This column will discuss recent research on the role of borage seed oil and GLA in modern dermatologic care.

Anti-inflammatory Properties

Some 20 years ago, in response to reports that GLA-containing vegetable oils contributed to reducing the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions, Miller et al. fed guinea pigs borage oil, containing 25% GLA, or a control diet containing safflower oil (less than 0.5% GLA) for 8 weeks to establish whether GLA could modulate cutaneous eicosanoids. Examination of epidermal samples, including neutral lipids and phospholipids, revealed a significant increase in GLA and dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA), its elongase product. Analysis of epidermal eicosanoids showed substantial rises in 15-hydroxy fatty acid (15-OH-20:3n-6) and prostaglandin PGE1, both metabolites of DGLA (and both of which display anti-inflammatory potential), in the borage oil–fed guinea pigs. The authors concluded that increased dietary GLA has the potential to produce local anti-inflammatory metabolites, thus representing a nontoxic approach to treating inflammatory skin disorders (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1988;154:967-74).

In a study 3 years later, Miller et al. supplemented the diets of normal guinea pigs with various polyunsaturated fatty acids, ethyl esters of either fish oil (rich in the omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid [EPA] and docosahexaenoic acid [DHA]) or gamma-linolenic acid–rich borage oil, to determine the epidermal effects. The researchers found that guinea pigs that were administered borage oil preferentially incorporated DGLA, the epidermal elongase product of GLA, into epidermal phospholipids. EPA and DHA were also incorporated into epidermal phospholipids in the group that was fed fish oil. The investigators then considered the epidermal levels of the 15-lipoxygenase products and their relative inhibitory strengths to develop a method to quantify the overall potential of the dietary oils to yield local anti-inflammatory results.

Consequently, they noted that fish oil and borage oil leukotriene inhibition potentials greatly surpassed that of controls. The investigators concluded that the reported beneficial effects of fish and borage oils in the treatment of chronic inflammatory skin disorders may be at least partly attributed to the effects on the epidermal 15-lipoxygenase products engendered by the dietary oils (J. Invest. Dermatol. 1991;96:98-103).

Transepidermal Water Loss Impact

In 1993, Tollefson and Frithz studied the significance of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum water content in disease and recovery in 37 patients with clinically diagnosed infantile seborrheic dermatitis. Within 3-4 weeks of a daily regimen of topically applied borage oil containing 24% GLA, all patients were symptom free. In the assessment of TEWL and stratum corneum water content, 25 healthy, age-matched children served as controls. Although there were no significant differences between the groups in terms of stratum corneum water content, significant pretreatment differences in TEWL were found between patients and controls. There were no significant differences after treatment, however. The investigators concluded that GLA is key to maintaining normal TEWL and as a treatment for infantile seborrheic dermatitis (Acta Derm. Venereol. 1993;73:18-20; Br. J. Dermatol. 1993;129:95).

In 2000, Brosche and Platt assessed the effects of borage oil consumption on various skin parameters in 29 healthy elderly people (mean age, 68.6 years). The subjects received a daily dose of 360- or 720-mg GLA from borage oil in gelatin capsules for 2 months. A statistically significant improvement in cutaneous barrier function was noted, as indicated by a mean decrease of 10.8% in TEWL. Although no significant changes in skin hydration were quantified, 42% of the participants reported dry skin prior to borage oil consumption and only 14% after using the test compound. In addition, pruritus was reported by 34% before treatment and by 0% after treatment. The researchers concluded that consumption of borage oil improved the skin function of their healthy elderly study participants (Arch. Gerontol. Geriatr. 2000;30:139-50).

In 2008, investigators studied the cutaneous effects of various constituents of a fermented dairy product. Specifically, they were interested in the bioavailability in the epidermis of the mixture of borage oil, catechins, vitamin E, and probiotics. After determining bioavailability in plasma samples, the researchers conducted a 24-week skin nutrition study in female volunteers who had dry and sensitive skin. As early as 6 weeks into the study, subjects were found to have improved stratum corneum barrier function, compared with a control product. TEWL relative to the control was also maintained through the length of the study despite seasonal weather changes. The investigators noted that the cutaneous effects of the dairy product yielded greater skin barrier function than any effects yet seen from the individual ingredients (Exp. Dermatol. 2008;17:668-74).

Uses of Borage for Eczema and Skin Reddening

A decade ago, Henz et al. conducted a 24-week, double-blind, multicenter study with 160 adults with stable, moderately severe atopic eczema who were randomized to take daily a 500-mg borage oil capsule or a placebo. The investigators noted that although several clinical symptoms improved in association with the borage oil in comparison to placebo, statistical significance was not achieved in the overall response in the borage oil group. However, significant differences in a subgroup of patients were found that suggested positive effects conferred by borage oil. These patients failed to experience increased erythrocyte DGLA levels, and investigators were not confident regarding the group’s adherence to inclusion criteria and the study protocol. The researchers observed, though, that GLA metabolites increased in the borage oil–treated patients in this group, and serum IgE appeared to be on the wane (Br. J. Dermatol. 1999;140:685-8).

In early 2009, investigators tested the cutaneous effects of flaxseed oil and borage oil supplementation in a 12-week study of two groups of women. Alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids were major constituents in the flaxseed oil doses, and linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids were the primary components in the borage oil supplement. Medium-chain fatty acids made up the placebo that was administered to the control group. Both test groups experienced a decline in skin reddening and blood flow over the study, whereas skin hydration was significantly enhanced. (Hydration was the only parameter affected in the placebo group.)

After 6 weeks of supplementation, a 10% decrease in TEWL was noted in both groups, with an additional reduction after 12 weeks identified in the flaxseed group. Investigators’ assessments indicated that skin roughness and scaling decreased significantly over the study period in both groups, as they concluded that intervention with dietary lipids can influence cutaneous properties (Br. J. Nutr. 2009;101:440-5).

Conclusion

Borage, as the greatest natural source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), is a significant plant in dermatology. Mounting evidence suggests that GLA-rich borage seed oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of various medical conditions, including several cutaneous ones. Borage seed oil and GLA have been shown to be effective through oral supplementation and topical administration.

Borage, a plant with ferny leaves, electric blue flowers, and cucumberlike fruit, is becoming known in the culinary world as a tasty herb and condiment. But research on the medicinal properties of borage is still in the early stages, despite some promising work showing anti-inflammatory and antierythemic properties. The herb is worth investigating, as it may have dermatologic applications.

Borago officinalis is an annual herb native to Syria and now grown throughout the Mediterranean, Middle East, North Africa, Europe, and South America. Derived from the seeds of the plant, borage seed oil is used in medical practice for its anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, arthritis, and other conditions. In fact, the use of borage oil has demonstrated efficacy as a topical therapeutic approach to childhood eczema in small studies in which, for example, the symptoms of childhood atopic dermatitis were relieved by undershirts coated with borage oil (Eur. J. Dermatol. 2007;17:448-9; J. Dermatol. 2007;34:811-5; J. Fam. Pract. 2009;58:280-1).

Courtesy flickr/anemoneprojectors/creative commons license

Significantly, borage seed oil is also the best plant source of the omega-6 essential fatty acid gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), with GLA accounting for about a quarter of the oil and some extraction processes yielding products with over 50% GLA. Human skin cannot synthesize GLA from the precursor linoleic acid, which is notable because GLA is believed to contribute to skin hydration. As an oral supplement, borage seed oil is believed to be useful in reducing skin inflammation and erythema. As an ingredient in topical applications, it is thought to moisturize and strengthen the skin barrier. This column will discuss recent research on the role of borage seed oil and GLA in modern dermatologic care.

Anti-inflammatory Properties

Some 20 years ago, in response to reports that GLA-containing vegetable oils contributed to reducing the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions, Miller et al. fed guinea pigs borage oil, containing 25% GLA, or a control diet containing safflower oil (less than 0.5% GLA) for 8 weeks to establish whether GLA could modulate cutaneous eicosanoids. Examination of epidermal samples, including neutral lipids and phospholipids, revealed a significant increase in GLA and dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA), its elongase product. Analysis of epidermal eicosanoids showed substantial rises in 15-hydroxy fatty acid (15-OH-20:3n-6) and prostaglandin PGE1, both metabolites of DGLA (and both of which display anti-inflammatory potential), in the borage oil–fed guinea pigs. The authors concluded that increased dietary GLA has the potential to produce local anti-inflammatory metabolites, thus representing a nontoxic approach to treating inflammatory skin disorders (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1988;154:967-74).

In a study 3 years later, Miller et al. supplemented the diets of normal guinea pigs with various polyunsaturated fatty acids, ethyl esters of either fish oil (rich in the omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid [EPA] and docosahexaenoic acid [DHA]) or gamma-linolenic acid–rich borage oil, to determine the epidermal effects. The researchers found that guinea pigs that were administered borage oil preferentially incorporated DGLA, the epidermal elongase product of GLA, into epidermal phospholipids. EPA and DHA were also incorporated into epidermal phospholipids in the group that was fed fish oil. The investigators then considered the epidermal levels of the 15-lipoxygenase products and their relative inhibitory strengths to develop a method to quantify the overall potential of the dietary oils to yield local anti-inflammatory results.

Consequently, they noted that fish oil and borage oil leukotriene inhibition potentials greatly surpassed that of controls. The investigators concluded that the reported beneficial effects of fish and borage oils in the treatment of chronic inflammatory skin disorders may be at least partly attributed to the effects on the epidermal 15-lipoxygenase products engendered by the dietary oils (J. Invest. Dermatol. 1991;96:98-103).

Transepidermal Water Loss Impact

In 1993, Tollefson and Frithz studied the significance of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum water content in disease and recovery in 37 patients with clinically diagnosed infantile seborrheic dermatitis. Within 3-4 weeks of a daily regimen of topically applied borage oil containing 24% GLA, all patients were symptom free. In the assessment of TEWL and stratum corneum water content, 25 healthy, age-matched children served as controls. Although there were no significant differences between the groups in terms of stratum corneum water content, significant pretreatment differences in TEWL were found between patients and controls. There were no significant differences after treatment, however. The investigators concluded that GLA is key to maintaining normal TEWL and as a treatment for infantile seborrheic dermatitis (Acta Derm. Venereol. 1993;73:18-20; Br. J. Dermatol. 1993;129:95).

In 2000, Brosche and Platt assessed the effects of borage oil consumption on various skin parameters in 29 healthy elderly people (mean age, 68.6 years). The subjects received a daily dose of 360- or 720-mg GLA from borage oil in gelatin capsules for 2 months. A statistically significant improvement in cutaneous barrier function was noted, as indicated by a mean decrease of 10.8% in TEWL. Although no significant changes in skin hydration were quantified, 42% of the participants reported dry skin prior to borage oil consumption and only 14% after using the test compound. In addition, pruritus was reported by 34% before treatment and by 0% after treatment. The researchers concluded that consumption of borage oil improved the skin function of their healthy elderly study participants (Arch. Gerontol. Geriatr. 2000;30:139-50).

In 2008, investigators studied the cutaneous effects of various constituents of a fermented dairy product. Specifically, they were interested in the bioavailability in the epidermis of the mixture of borage oil, catechins, vitamin E, and probiotics. After determining bioavailability in plasma samples, the researchers conducted a 24-week skin nutrition study in female volunteers who had dry and sensitive skin. As early as 6 weeks into the study, subjects were found to have improved stratum corneum barrier function, compared with a control product. TEWL relative to the control was also maintained through the length of the study despite seasonal weather changes. The investigators noted that the cutaneous effects of the dairy product yielded greater skin barrier function than any effects yet seen from the individual ingredients (Exp. Dermatol. 2008;17:668-74).

Uses of Borage for Eczema and Skin Reddening

A decade ago, Henz et al. conducted a 24-week, double-blind, multicenter study with 160 adults with stable, moderately severe atopic eczema who were randomized to take daily a 500-mg borage oil capsule or a placebo. The investigators noted that although several clinical symptoms improved in association with the borage oil in comparison to placebo, statistical significance was not achieved in the overall response in the borage oil group. However, significant differences in a subgroup of patients were found that suggested positive effects conferred by borage oil. These patients failed to experience increased erythrocyte DGLA levels, and investigators were not confident regarding the group’s adherence to inclusion criteria and the study protocol. The researchers observed, though, that GLA metabolites increased in the borage oil–treated patients in this group, and serum IgE appeared to be on the wane (Br. J. Dermatol. 1999;140:685-8).

In early 2009, investigators tested the cutaneous effects of flaxseed oil and borage oil supplementation in a 12-week study of two groups of women. Alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids were major constituents in the flaxseed oil doses, and linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids were the primary components in the borage oil supplement. Medium-chain fatty acids made up the placebo that was administered to the control group. Both test groups experienced a decline in skin reddening and blood flow over the study, whereas skin hydration was significantly enhanced. (Hydration was the only parameter affected in the placebo group.)

After 6 weeks of supplementation, a 10% decrease in TEWL was noted in both groups, with an additional reduction after 12 weeks identified in the flaxseed group. Investigators’ assessments indicated that skin roughness and scaling decreased significantly over the study period in both groups, as they concluded that intervention with dietary lipids can influence cutaneous properties (Br. J. Nutr. 2009;101:440-5).

Conclusion

Borage, as the greatest natural source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), is a significant plant in dermatology. Mounting evidence suggests that GLA-rich borage seed oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of various medical conditions, including several cutaneous ones. Borage seed oil and GLA have been shown to be effective through oral supplementation and topical administration.

Borage, a plant with ferny leaves, electric blue flowers, and cucumberlike fruit, is becoming known in the culinary world as a tasty herb and condiment. But research on the medicinal properties of borage is still in the early stages, despite some promising work showing anti-inflammatory and antierythemic properties. The herb is worth investigating, as it may have dermatologic applications.

Borago officinalis is an annual herb native to Syria and now grown throughout the Mediterranean, Middle East, North Africa, Europe, and South America. Derived from the seeds of the plant, borage seed oil is used in medical practice for its anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, arthritis, and other conditions. In fact, the use of borage oil has demonstrated efficacy as a topical therapeutic approach to childhood eczema in small studies in which, for example, the symptoms of childhood atopic dermatitis were relieved by undershirts coated with borage oil (Eur. J. Dermatol. 2007;17:448-9; J. Dermatol. 2007;34:811-5; J. Fam. Pract. 2009;58:280-1).

Courtesy flickr/anemoneprojectors/creative commons license

Significantly, borage seed oil is also the best plant source of the omega-6 essential fatty acid gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), with GLA accounting for about a quarter of the oil and some extraction processes yielding products with over 50% GLA. Human skin cannot synthesize GLA from the precursor linoleic acid, which is notable because GLA is believed to contribute to skin hydration. As an oral supplement, borage seed oil is believed to be useful in reducing skin inflammation and erythema. As an ingredient in topical applications, it is thought to moisturize and strengthen the skin barrier. This column will discuss recent research on the role of borage seed oil and GLA in modern dermatologic care.

Anti-inflammatory Properties

Some 20 years ago, in response to reports that GLA-containing vegetable oils contributed to reducing the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions, Miller et al. fed guinea pigs borage oil, containing 25% GLA, or a control diet containing safflower oil (less than 0.5% GLA) for 8 weeks to establish whether GLA could modulate cutaneous eicosanoids. Examination of epidermal samples, including neutral lipids and phospholipids, revealed a significant increase in GLA and dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA), its elongase product. Analysis of epidermal eicosanoids showed substantial rises in 15-hydroxy fatty acid (15-OH-20:3n-6) and prostaglandin PGE1, both metabolites of DGLA (and both of which display anti-inflammatory potential), in the borage oil–fed guinea pigs. The authors concluded that increased dietary GLA has the potential to produce local anti-inflammatory metabolites, thus representing a nontoxic approach to treating inflammatory skin disorders (Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 1988;154:967-74).

In a study 3 years later, Miller et al. supplemented the diets of normal guinea pigs with various polyunsaturated fatty acids, ethyl esters of either fish oil (rich in the omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid [EPA] and docosahexaenoic acid [DHA]) or gamma-linolenic acid–rich borage oil, to determine the epidermal effects. The researchers found that guinea pigs that were administered borage oil preferentially incorporated DGLA, the epidermal elongase product of GLA, into epidermal phospholipids. EPA and DHA were also incorporated into epidermal phospholipids in the group that was fed fish oil. The investigators then considered the epidermal levels of the 15-lipoxygenase products and their relative inhibitory strengths to develop a method to quantify the overall potential of the dietary oils to yield local anti-inflammatory results.

Consequently, they noted that fish oil and borage oil leukotriene inhibition potentials greatly surpassed that of controls. The investigators concluded that the reported beneficial effects of fish and borage oils in the treatment of chronic inflammatory skin disorders may be at least partly attributed to the effects on the epidermal 15-lipoxygenase products engendered by the dietary oils (J. Invest. Dermatol. 1991;96:98-103).

Transepidermal Water Loss Impact

In 1993, Tollefson and Frithz studied the significance of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum water content in disease and recovery in 37 patients with clinically diagnosed infantile seborrheic dermatitis. Within 3-4 weeks of a daily regimen of topically applied borage oil containing 24% GLA, all patients were symptom free. In the assessment of TEWL and stratum corneum water content, 25 healthy, age-matched children served as controls. Although there were no significant differences between the groups in terms of stratum corneum water content, significant pretreatment differences in TEWL were found between patients and controls. There were no significant differences after treatment, however. The investigators concluded that GLA is key to maintaining normal TEWL and as a treatment for infantile seborrheic dermatitis (Acta Derm. Venereol. 1993;73:18-20; Br. J. Dermatol. 1993;129:95).

In 2000, Brosche and Platt assessed the effects of borage oil consumption on various skin parameters in 29 healthy elderly people (mean age, 68.6 years). The subjects received a daily dose of 360- or 720-mg GLA from borage oil in gelatin capsules for 2 months. A statistically significant improvement in cutaneous barrier function was noted, as indicated by a mean decrease of 10.8% in TEWL. Although no significant changes in skin hydration were quantified, 42% of the participants reported dry skin prior to borage oil consumption and only 14% after using the test compound. In addition, pruritus was reported by 34% before treatment and by 0% after treatment. The researchers concluded that consumption of borage oil improved the skin function of their healthy elderly study participants (Arch. Gerontol. Geriatr. 2000;30:139-50).

In 2008, investigators studied the cutaneous effects of various constituents of a fermented dairy product. Specifically, they were interested in the bioavailability in the epidermis of the mixture of borage oil, catechins, vitamin E, and probiotics. After determining bioavailability in plasma samples, the researchers conducted a 24-week skin nutrition study in female volunteers who had dry and sensitive skin. As early as 6 weeks into the study, subjects were found to have improved stratum corneum barrier function, compared with a control product. TEWL relative to the control was also maintained through the length of the study despite seasonal weather changes. The investigators noted that the cutaneous effects of the dairy product yielded greater skin barrier function than any effects yet seen from the individual ingredients (Exp. Dermatol. 2008;17:668-74).

Uses of Borage for Eczema and Skin Reddening

A decade ago, Henz et al. conducted a 24-week, double-blind, multicenter study with 160 adults with stable, moderately severe atopic eczema who were randomized to take daily a 500-mg borage oil capsule or a placebo. The investigators noted that although several clinical symptoms improved in association with the borage oil in comparison to placebo, statistical significance was not achieved in the overall response in the borage oil group. However, significant differences in a subgroup of patients were found that suggested positive effects conferred by borage oil. These patients failed to experience increased erythrocyte DGLA levels, and investigators were not confident regarding the group’s adherence to inclusion criteria and the study protocol. The researchers observed, though, that GLA metabolites increased in the borage oil–treated patients in this group, and serum IgE appeared to be on the wane (Br. J. Dermatol. 1999;140:685-8).

In early 2009, investigators tested the cutaneous effects of flaxseed oil and borage oil supplementation in a 12-week study of two groups of women. Alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids were major constituents in the flaxseed oil doses, and linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids were the primary components in the borage oil supplement. Medium-chain fatty acids made up the placebo that was administered to the control group. Both test groups experienced a decline in skin reddening and blood flow over the study, whereas skin hydration was significantly enhanced. (Hydration was the only parameter affected in the placebo group.)

After 6 weeks of supplementation, a 10% decrease in TEWL was noted in both groups, with an additional reduction after 12 weeks identified in the flaxseed group. Investigators’ assessments indicated that skin roughness and scaling decreased significantly over the study period in both groups, as they concluded that intervention with dietary lipids can influence cutaneous properties (Br. J. Nutr. 2009;101:440-5).

Conclusion

Borage, as the greatest natural source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), is a significant plant in dermatology. Mounting evidence suggests that GLA-rich borage seed oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of various medical conditions, including several cutaneous ones. Borage seed oil and GLA have been shown to be effective through oral supplementation and topical administration.